Novice surfer Abi Jackson finds her feet at Surfers Lodge Peniche in Portugal

Marlene, our teacher, has been showing us how to get from lying on the board to standing up, breaking it down into three steps - pushing up with the hands, getting on your feet, then finally stepping one leg forwards into the full standing position - and I'm sailing through.

Granted, we haven't actually got into the sea yet - you learn the basics on sand first - but how different can it be?

I'd really hoped I'd be a natural. You see, I've always secretly fantasised about being a surfer, so it seemed like fate when I finally got the opportunity to learn, on a long weekend-break at the new and achingly dreamy Surfers Lodge Peniche in Portugal.

All I had to do was complete the lessons, then the rest would fall into place: I'd quit the nine-to-five, bid adieu to city smog and say 'Hey dude' to my Californian seaside destiny. So far, everything was going to plan.

'You've got this,' I tell myself, lugging my board and smug grin into the water.

After a few goes, getting used to clambering on the board, paddling, then pushing up onto our hands and feet, we're ready to try and stand up.

But, as my classmates somehow manage to get up straight away, I rapidly come crashing down to earth - or, into the choppy Atlantic Ocean, rather - over and over again, and I realise, between swallowing mouthfuls of seawater, that while I'm practically professional on the sand, in the sea, I'm utterly useless.

At the end of our three-hour double lesson, I'm not sure what's taken the biggest battering: my pride or my body.

Surf lessons are gruelling; I'm utterly knackered and covered in bruises.

But despite all that, another wave is washing over me, and this time, believe it or not, it's not wet and salty. It is the blissful backwash of satisfaction. The mild euphoria of being a grown-up, who's spent the morning playing in the sea, finally doing something I've always dreamt of, and learning (or at least attempting to) a new skill. How cool is that?!

On day two, I'm determined to crack it, but still aching and stiff from the first lesson, it's even harder. I manage to get on my feet for about three-quarters of a second - not exactly the life-changing eureka moment I'd been hoping for, but it's a start, right?

"It was months before I could properly stand up," Marlene tells me. Coming from somebody who eventually quit her day job to live the surfer dream, it's reassuring.

Still, in the cinema room at the Lodge later on - where we watch video footage of our lessons to see where we're going right and wrong - I can't help wondering if I'd have more luck sending the film into You've Been Framed...

DIGGING THESE DIGS

Nestled on the outskirts of the Peniche peninsular on Portugal's mid-west coast, about 100km north of Lisbon, Surfers Lodge Peniche opened last year. It's founded by John Malmqvist, a former Swedish surf champ (and if that sounds like an anomaly - it is; John jokes that he's surfing's answer to the Jamaican national bobsled team), whose vision was to create surf holidays with a touch of comfort and luxury, combined with bohemian cool.

There are other surf schools dotted nearby, but, when it comes to sleeping arrangements and hospitality, standards tend to be basic. Cheap 'n' cheerful does well with dedicated globetrotting surf bums, students and groups of youngsters, of course. "But there are plenty of people who've reached a point where they want to surf, but they also want somewhere nice and relaxing to stay, and good food and wine," says John.

The team's done a great job making this a reality. With a stylish, boutique feel, upcycled boat parts, flotsam, vintage surf boards and old sepia photos make up much of the decor.

But it's homely too, and the ambience is what makes it a real winner; despite the luxuries - the power showers, fluffy towels and rooftop pool and Jacuzzi - that sense of ultra laid-back surfer cool remains (so even if your surfing's not up to scratch, you'll at least feel the part).

There are 15 en-suite bedrooms; nine twins and six doubles. Plus, two 12-sleeper dormitories mean big groups are catered for too.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYBODY

Portugal has long attracted surfers from all over the world, and this region's ideal for both beginners and pros - the famous Supertubos beach, where numerous World Championships have been held, is just down the road.

Local surfers are full of stories about seeing their hero, American record-breaking champ Kelly Slater, in action.

Meanwhile, the two beaches a ten-minute walk from the Lodge are perfect for intermediate learners and total beginners.

The surf school caters for all levels of experience too, and all ages are welcome (I'm assured you're never too old to learn to surf!), with wetsuits and boards supplied.

BEYOND THE SURF

Surfing is the main appeal, but there are lots of other things to do here too. Two golf courses, stand-up paddle boarding, tennis courts and scuba diving can all be found nearby, while the Lodge also offers yoga, massage plus skate and bike rental - I had a lovely afternoon pedalling around.

There are walking trails too, or enquire about Goncalo (super cool surf dude and Marlene's surf school colleague) taking you on a tour of the area's beaches; he'll point out his favourite scenery and wildlife spots too.

Other highlights are a tour of the local Fatum surf board factory, where you can see how the boards are made, and the Quinta do Sanguinhal vineyards. It's a 45-minute or so drive from the Lodge, but it's utterly charming and they do a superb rose.

It doesn't all have to be action-packed - the Lodge's roof terrace, complete with giant cushions and hippie-style rugs, was made for lounging. Snuggle up with a book or take a snooze in the late afternoon sunshine.

WINE AND DINE

Quality, 'honest' grub is what the Lodge's kitchen's striving for; a mix of gourmet burgers, hearty salads and melt-in-your-mouth chocolate desserts, with seasonal and local produce used wherever possible. You can't go wrong, and - pleasingly - there's decent coffee at breakfast too.

But if you'd like to venture out to eat as well, cafes dotted along the beaches are ideal for laid-back lunches, while, for a special dinner, definitely check out Restaurante Nau dos Corvos - which is built right on the edge of the nearby Carvoeiro Cape cliffs - for top-notch seafood served with stunning views.

TRAVEL FACTS

Double rooms at Surfers Lodge Peniche range from 118-158 euros per night. For more information, visit www.surferslodgepeniche.com, call +351 262 700 030 or email info@surferslodgepeniche.com

easyJet offers direct flights from London Gatwick (easyjet.com)