THE rhythmic dip of oars into water is all I hear as I peer out from above my slightly ill-fitting life jacket. In the dusky light, the river banks appear to stretch into infinity. Deer, wild boar and exotic birds are gathering at the water's edge for an evening drink.

Feeling a breeze on my cheek, I turn to find it's from the beat of a wing. A small group of birds have joined us, circling and darting alongside our little boat.

We're in the peaceful Chitwan Valley in southern Nepal. It's a world away from the sensory assault of capital city Kathmandu, but easily reached on a weekend away.

Many travellers to Nepal fly straight in and out of the capital on their way to a series of well-worn trekking routes around the country. But it's worth sticking around for a few days and exploring the surrounding area.

On the capital's periphery I found Buddhist and Hindu temples alive with swinging monkeys, crumbling doorways opening up to reveal magical gardens and hidden courtyards, and a stunning Newari five-star hotel.

Over in nearby city Patan, new patterns of culture are emerging from cross-cultural pollinations of eastern and western music and cuisine. Further afield, the horizon shifts and opens up to the spectacular Himalayan sunsets of Nagarkot and the lumbering elephant safaris of Chitwan's plains.

The Kathmandu Valley alone is home to seven world heritage sites, more than 3,000 temples and a plethora of spiritual, cultural and surprisingly serene experiences.

Kathmandu itself is a full-throttle city: taxi and rickshaw drivers sound their horns far into the night, and 'momos' (delicious Nepalese dumplings) simmer on oversized hot plates in every other doorway.

In tourist-friendly zone Thamel, small dust roads are lined with guest houses, shops, workshops and every imaginable type of food outlet. But despite the heavy, fuel-belching traffic and general hunger for modernisation, symbols of tradition still remain.

Temples, terracotta sculptures, bronze crafts - the results of 2,000 years of habitation - are crammed into a patchwork of medieval buildings and new-builds. Migrating groups from Tibet and India have nourished the place with their rich arts and culture.

Today, most visitors pass through on their way to "greater" adventures, but stick around for a few days and Kathmandu's magic will quickly take hold.

Travel facts - Kathmandu

Fiona travelled as a guest of Bales Worldwide (0845 057 0600; balesworldwide.com) who offer the 10-day Nepal Panorama from £2,270 pp (two adults travelling), including scheduled flights, sightseeing and accommodation encompassing Kathmandu (2 nights), Pokhara (2 nights), Bandipur (1 night), Chitwan National Park (2 nights), Kathmandu (1 night).

Prices are based on February 14, 2014 departure. Book by September 30.