REVIEW: The Crab at Bournemouth (From Basingstoke Gazette)

REVIEW: The Crab at Bournemouth

1:35pm Tuesday 15th November 2011 in Taste and Tell By Joanne Mace

The Crab at Bournemouth

Crabatbournemouth.com

01202 203601

IT MAY have been a chilly autumnal evening, but The Crab at Bournemouth provided an exceedingly warm welcome.

This acclaimed venue is the sister restaurant to the award winning Crab at Chieveley in Berkshire, and sits with a view of the sea about five minutes walk away from Bournemouth beach itself. Attached to the excellent Park Central hotel, it is ideal for family and business use being immediately opposite the BIC, and offered a pre-theatre menu which is unbelievable value for money for food of the Crab’s standard.

My husband and I, accompanied by our toddler, made our way to the basement of the hotel (from where the restaurant can be accessed, as well as directly from the street) into the lovely dining space. We had an excellent view of the sea and of the pianist, who played a delightful selection of tunes during the almost three hours we were in there. It was the sort of music which enhances rather than detracts, inspiring us to conversation throughout.

Restaurant manager Chris was attentive and professional from the off, guiding us through the menu and our wine selection. He and his staff were also extremely tolerant of our whinging daughter, and made sure that her delightfully presented children’s portion of chicken nuggets, made with 100% chicken breast, and chips arrived swiftly.

Given the venue, we both felt we ought to include crab as part of our selections. All of the Crab’s fish is bought directly from the local markets in Dorset as well as Newlyn, Brixham and Looe and is delivered fresh, six days a week. The other half opted for crab cocktail to start whilst I thought the full works, the crab special, was appropriate for a main. Having never before done my own ‘cracking’, I very much enjoyed the experience and was appreciative of Chris’ advice and offer of assistance if it proved too much for a novice to tackle. We were also treated to a wonderfully refreshing amuse bouche from the chef.

The other half’s surf and turf delighted him almost beyond measure and we noted that the tables around us were equally happy, tucking into half or full lobsters, or the hot fruits de mer option.

As the lights dimmed and we sat back (troublesome daughter was sleeping in her cot by now) enjoying the warm ambiance and view of the blustery street outside, we felt we could just squeeze in a little something extra – and boy, was I glad. The Mojito granita which accompanied my key lime pie was just as sharp as it should have been, making it a key contributor to one of most satisfying desserts I have ever eaten. The silence from the other side of the table spoke volumes as my husband devoured his white chocolate and raspberry muffin with clotted cream, smiling beatifically.

This is an establishment fully deserving of an autumn/winter visit. I can’t think of anything finer than a bracing walk along the seafront followed by a splendid dinner showcasing the local fish and some of the best food in the south.